Wonderful article in WSJ on two delightful restaurants Gary Danko and Coi

So I waited 15 months and went back to try out two of my San Francisco boosters’ favorite addresses. I took a San Francisco resident, Sheila Warren, along as a guide to Restaurant Gary Danko, which may be not only the most admired restaurant in San Francisco, but also one of the most popular elite restaurants in the country; and then I took a Russian Hill couple, Harvey Hacker and Jonee Levy, to eat at the spiritual antipodes of San Francisco haute cuisine, the radically inventive Coi. Different as they are, Gary Danko and Coi each occupy unostentatious locations in the north of the city, an easy walk apart but separated by worlds of intent and achievement. Gary Danko feels like a private house with an idiosyncratic decorator attracted by discreet splashes of bright color. The staff is unbeatably warm and attentive. And the food is uniformly delicious, displaying the chef’s knowledge of, but not infatuation with, exotic ingredients and hell-bent creativity. – from WSJ