Meet Cédric Vongerichten- the son of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who trained at El Bulli and Hong Kong’s Mandarin Oriental before striking out solo with Wayan, the Nolita restaurant he opened with wife Ochi in 2019 — a French-Indonesian concept so distinctive it became the only Indonesian restaurant recognized by the Michelin Guide in America. With sister restaurant Ma•dé and outposts now spanning Aspen to Jakarta, we caught up with Cédric to talk legacy, identity, and what’s next for CV Restaurant Group.
You were born in Bangkok while your father was cooking at the Oriental Hotel, then grew up between France and New York. How did that early, borderless upbringing shape your palate before you ever picked up a knife professionally?
I was exposed to a lot of different cultures and food traditions from a very young age. I was born in Bangkok, grew up between France and New York, and spent time in Portugal and other places along the way. Each place gave me a different perspective on food.
In Thailand, I was exposed to bold flavors – chilies, herbs, spice and a little sweetness – while France taught me to appreciate simplicity, refinement and letting great ingredients speak for themselves. I think that early exposure made me less interested in putting food into specific categories. I tend to cook more from memories, emotions and experiences from traveling than from thinking, “This is French” or “This is Indonesian.” I trust my intuition and the flavors that feel right to me.
Your training took you through Ducasse’s kitchens and El Bulli before you worked alongside your father. What’s one lesson from those years that still shapes how you cook today?
I worked in more than 10 restaurants before eventually working alongside my father, and every kitchen taught me something different. With Ducasse, I learned discipline and consistency. Everything was extremely detailed, and there was a real understanding that excellence comes from doing the small things correctly every single time.
El Bulli gave me almost the opposite lesson: creativity and the freedom to question everything. It taught me to look at ingredients and techniques from completely different perspectives and not be afraid to reinvent something.
I think those two experiences work really well together. You need a strong foundation and discipline, but you also need the freedom to be inventive. At the end of the day, though, the most important thing is always the same: it has to be delicious.
Wayan and Ma•dé are two of the few restaurants in the U.S. dedicated to Indonesian cuisine — what made you want to champion a cuisine so many American diners don’t know well yet?
Indonesian cuisine is very personal to me because my wife is Indonesian. The more time I’ve spent in Indonesia over the past 20 years, the more fascinated I’ve become by the food, the flavors and the incredible diversity of the cuisine.
In some ways, it reminds me of France because the food changes so much from region to region. But in Indonesia, you’re talking about thousands of islands, each with its own traditions, ingredients and techniques. There’s so much depth to explore.
Indonesian cuisine is still underrepresented in the U.S., although that’s beginning to change, and I want to continue helping introduce people to it.
With Wayan and Ma•dé, I try to present Indonesian food in a way that feels personal to me and authentic to the cuisine, while also making it approachable for someone who may be experiencing those flavors for the first time. I wasn’t born in Indonesia, so I have a lot of respect for that responsibility. The goal is to bring a contemporary perspective without losing the soul of the food.
What’s a flavor or ingredient — Indonesian or otherwise — you’re currently obsessed with and can’t stop putting on menus?
Sambal. In Indonesia, sambal is almost its own universe. There are so many different varieties – some are sweet, some acidic, some funky, some incredibly spicy – and Indonesians put it on almost everything.
I love it because it’s such a versatile condiment. You can put it on a sandwich, add it to soup or serve it alongside meat, but it also works surprisingly well with French food. I’ll even bring little packets of sambal when I’m traveling because it can completely elevate a dish and make it more exciting.
I think of sambal almost like a mother sauce: it’s something you can keep on the table and add to a dish depending on what you want. At Wayan, we make more specific sambals to pair with certain dishes, and it works particularly well with things like lamb satay and grilled meats.
I’m also a big fan of kecap manis, the Indonesian sweet soy sauce. It’s incredibly aromatic and adds a really beautiful depth of flavor.
What trends are you seeing in the culinary world right now?
I think we’re seeing a return to food that feels simple, honest and ingredient-driven. The industry goes back and forth between highly creative, conceptual food and something more straightforward, and right now I think people are craving clean ingredients and honest preparation.
I’m also excited to see more chefs celebrating regional cuisines. Chefs have more opportunities to travel and learn from different cultures, and diners are increasingly interested in experiencing something they haven’t tried before. It’s a great time for cuisines that haven’t traditionally received as much attention in the U.S. to have a stronger presence.
What’s your go-to dish to make at home?
Indonesian fried noodles, or mie goreng, are definitely one of my favorites. I love the way that my wife makes them; they’re warm, filling and have a nice amount of spice.
I also love making something very simple from my childhood in France: coquillette with ham and cheese. It’s basically elbow pasta cooked al dente with diced ham, Gruyère and butter. It’s simple, comforting and very nostalgic for me.
What’s one restaurant in New York (besides your own) you always recommend to friends?
That’s a really difficult question, because there are so many incredible restaurants in New York. I don’t think I could name just one.
Four Twenty Five and the abc restaurants are ones that comes to mind, but honestly, it depends on what someone is looking for. That’s one of the things I love about New York: you can always find something new and exciting.
What’s next for the CV Restaurant Group — any cities or cuisines you’re eyeing?
We’re looking to continue growing Wayan. We currently have four locations across different states, including Aspen, New York and Miami, and the goal is to keep developing the concept and giving Indonesian cuisine an even bigger platform in the U.S.
We’re also working on a few other concepts that I’m very excited about, including something more in the direction of a brasserie and bistro.
What culinary destinations are on your bucket list?
I’d love to keep going back to Indonesia. I’ve been going for about 20 years, and I still feel like there’s so much I haven’t seen or tasted.
Japan is another place I’d love to return to. I have so much respect for the craft and attention to detail there, and I’d like to explore some new cities, particularly along the coast, to experience more of their seafood traditions.
And, I’d love to explore more of South America. I’ve been to Peru, Brazil and Uruguay, and I love the energy and the cuisine. There are still so many regions I want to discover.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing?
I have two answers. When I was younger, I was very interested in music, so that could have been one direction. But more and more, I’m connected to the ocean and water. I love surfing with my family, and so much of the way I travel now revolves around eating and surfing. There’s something about being in the water that forces you to be completely present.
In some ways, it’s similar to cooking. There’s so much that happens around the business and operations of restaurants, but when you’re actually cooking, you forget about everything else. You’re completely focused on what’s in front of you. I love that feeling.
Guilty pleasure — what do you eat when nobody’s looking?
A homemade smashburger with Kraft American cheese and a potato bun.
