Mount Juliet Estate is fresh from a top-to-bottom refurbishment that has brought this manor house, completed in 1757 for British-born Somerset Hamilton Butler and his wife Juliet for whom the property is named, to modern-day standards. But, it maintains the original style and design of its first residents who lived there until 1897.
Today, it is part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection and a popular destination for golfers, families, romance-seeking couples and travelers exploring the Emerald Isle. A visit to Ireland is best experienced outside of the cities to understand the essence of what makes it so special. Mount Juliet Estate sits just outside the charming town of Kilkenny, now a holiday destination for both international travelers and Irish people.
The hotel
The renovation was a carefully executed process as the estate is a national heritage site, which limits some of the changes that were able to be made. This is the only Georgian-style estate of its kind in County Kilkenny and sits on 500 acres of rolling hills.
The current style features a blend of contemporary design while maintaining the history of the estate. As many of the original furnishings, artwork and antiques as possible fill the public areas. Designers scoured auctions and even eBay to recreate the ambiance of decades ago. They measured every single curtain, curtain rod and stairway to assure that the detail is as accurate as possible. The original fireplaces, cornice work and windows were all protected in the upgrade.
According to General Manager Mark Donne, “the goal was to restore and reinstate.”
Twice a week, guests can sit with the hotel’s storyteller to learn more about the history of the property. Even the barmen and mixologists can regale guests with stories as they prepare a drink in the elegant drawing room or downstairs.
Also on the ground are 19 private homes, and the golf club facilities has local members.
Among the famous past guests Bruce Springsteen, Rory McElroy, former CIA director John Brennan, Kofi Annan, former British prime minister Gordon Brown, and past president Jimmy Carter, who fished on the river. Most of them stayed in the Presidential Suite.
Perhaps the strongest point of the estate is the doting staff, dressed in Irish-designed uniforms that are somewhere between a period and contemporary look. No request is too small. Ask for coffee in the lounge, and it arrives on a silver tray with all of the accoutrements. If you’re heading out for a walk, the door staff offers you a bottle of water. They are also available to drive guests on property or anywhere within the vicinity of the estate in electric BMW cars.
I spent an afternoon exploring Kilkenny Castle before enjoying a couple of pints at the famed Kyteler’s Inn and pub. Live music and a whiskey tasting were just the energy I needed to round out a day of exploring.
Food and beverage
I started my day in the formal Lady Helen dining room where starched white linens and fine porcelain cover every table. The full Irish breakfast is an experience, best enjoyed by one of the window seat tables overlooking the grounds. Eggs are prepared to order (I highly recommend the Irish soda bread and a slice of avocado). Other options include a fish of the day, kippers (a traditional Irish smoked herring dish), oatmeal and sweet dishes. All of the fish served at the estate arrives freshly caught every day.
Later in the day, lunch is available at The Hound, a casual venue overlooking the driving range with a menu of salads, burgers and sandwiches. My sweet potato soup with Irish soda bread (yes, that bread again) and salad were delicious. It is also a busy place for dinner with more formal dishes like grilled fish, short rib and beef filet among others.
The clubhouse has its own café for lighter fare. My favorite was enjoying a traditional Irish tea in the formal lounge with three-tiered stands packed with tea sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and intricate desserts. This is also a lovely place to enjoy a cocktail come sunset (or even earlier).
The hotel’s bespoke gin, known as Moon Gate Gin (and named for the Moon Gate garden often used for weddings), is distilled in County Kilkenny and features 18 botanical herbs, curated by the estate’s Michelin-starred chef John Kelly. Wine fans will find a lengthy list of more than 130 bottles, including Champagne, in the cellar.
Lady Helen in the manor house is a Michelin-starred dining room, completed with a wine-paired tasting menu. Each dish is plated and served with great fanfare, and the menu changes on a regular basis. Expect to see the chef, who is a local from County Kilkenny, arriving to the table when the main course arrives. Many of the ingredients come from around the region.
The rooms
Named for notable lords and ladies that have stayed here or are connected with the region, the rooms and suites are divided between the manor house and The Hunter’s Yard. There are 32 rooms and suites in the main estate, and these are among the best options. The latter features a refreshed look, too, and is closer to the golf course, club house and health club.
The renovation helped to grow the property’s premium category, tripling the number of suites from eight to 24.
Each section has its own sit-down reception and dining room. Behind every door is elegant carpeting and plush fabrics that show colorful floral designs. Pillowtop mattresses feature fine duvets and pillows, and I was impressed by the placement and number of power and USB outlets, including the latest versions.
They face either the gardens or the River Nore and the rolling hills where horses and cows roam free.
Bathrooms feature glass showers, and many have soaking tubs, some set by the window. They stock Bulgari toiletries in eco-friendly pump bottles. This was the first property in Ireland to offer them to guests.
There is no elevator in the main house, but there are several rooms on the ground floor.
The activities
There is plenty to do when spending a few days on the estate grounds. It starts with the golf course, designed by Jack Nicklaus and home to five Irish Open international championships. No doubt, this is the most popular activity here. It was also home to two American Express International World Championships; Tiger Woods, who stayed in the manor house, took home the top prize in the first.
During both events, the top 50 golfers from around the world at the time were playing at Mount Juliet Estate. There is a driving range and driving bays for a rainy Irish day. Pros are available to help perfect the game or give budding duffers a lesson.
Beyond the golf course, there are tennis courts, catch-and-release fly fishing in both the lake and the river, falconry, archery, clay shooting and horseback riding on the activity roster. Bikes for both adults and kids are available to borrow, and a gym and indoor swimming pool complete the picture.
I had a treatment in the spa, which was a great way to relax after a long flight. Younger guests can take advantage of the supervised kids club during the summer months. Otherwise, this is a year-round outdoorsy paradise, no matter the weather.
Ask at reception to have a picnic basket packed for you to enjoy anywhere around the grounds. I had a champagne-fueled lunch by the running water on a sunny summer afternoon.
Walking trails are marked out around the grounds for those that want to get their steps in each day. I took numerous walks each day, sometimes going off course, but always discovering something new.
Twice a day, the huntsmen bring out the nearly 100 Irish, English or Welsh hounds, typically used for fox hunting between October and early March, for a five-mile walk around the grounds. During my visit, they were not hunting, but guests are invited to watch these dogs enjoying their life on the estate. Even when not wandering the grounds, guests can ask to pop into the club room to see them.
Members can join the Kilkenny Hunt Club. The first weekend of hunting season is a spectacle watching the hounds unleashed into the woods. Guests can sip a hot toddy while enjoying the show. The huntsmen are kitted out in top hat and red jacket, bugle in hand. The sport is banned in the United Kingdom. However, it is still a permitted tradition here as it helps to control the fox population (they pose a danger to farming livestock).
The update has added a new, private cinema. It screens three free movies a day in leather seats with popcorn.
Marriott Bonvoy members will find this to be especially popular as will small meeting groups, wedding parties and corporate retreats. So exceptional are the facilities that this is one of a dozen Autograph Collection properties that belong to the luxury category for Marriott. The estate joined the group in 2019. This helped to boost the hotel’s American clientele, especially at the higher end of the market.
Verdict
As someone that has stayed in many Irish castle and manor hotels, Mount Juliet Estate made a memorable impression. Its attention to detail and service is impeccable. The renovation has elevated its standards to a new level for a great vacation, work trip or personal stay.
